Saturday, May 13, 2006

Sudden eye surgery

I went for a rountine eye check up and my doctor Gene Wyll saw something he didn't like. So he scheduled me for Tuesday He said it was really minor and I would be okay the same day but the greasy stuff he put in my eyes made it hard to see for the rest of the day.
My friend Rochelle is taking me to the surgery.

super shopper does an instant replay

I was bargain shopping and I saw a red jacket I knew would be just perfect for my friend Rochelle Brown. I tried to call her to describe it--but I could not reach her so I just bought it because it "just looked like her."
We met for lunch the next day and Rochelle could hardly wait to see what I had gotten for her.
We went to my car and I proudly presented it to her.
She started laughing.
She said, "Madelyn, I have that jacket and I wear it all the time"
I guess I was right that it looked like her.
I must have seen her wear it many times.

Tuesday, May 09, 2006

Double your Pleasure

Two new restuarants nearly next store to each other and I tried them two nights in a row.
My gal pal group met at Olivers on the NE corner of Frankford and the Tollway. Yummy Mediterranean food and pizza at very fair prices. I loved my sampler salad. Sort of like Cafe Express only a better value and better food.

That night, I noticed another restuarant, ZOOM, which is Thai and Vietnamese. So one of my favorite eating buddies, Sue Parma and I tried it. Colorful place with sophisticated dishes.
I loved the fried duck with eggplant in coconut milk. Sue prefered the Ginger Pork. We also had a fried fish cake appetizer served with two dipping sauces and shrimp chips. We would have had dessert but the alarm at Sue's house went off so we rushed back to her place

Friday, April 14, 2006

MORE THAN I WANTED

I came home from an almost two week trip to Las Vegas and Red Mountain Spa. I had so much mail, I had to get a cart to take it all up. There was a handsome man in the elevator who I have never met. He said, "wow, you get a lot of mail."
I EXPLAINED that I was a journalist and most of it was stuff I did not want.
Then I tore open a mailer bag that contained the book EROTIC ENCOUNTERS. 21 pleasureable steps.
We both laughed.
And then he looked at my mail and package bins and noticed I had been sent some wine.
Don't tell me that is another thing you don't want, he kidded

Monday, March 20, 2006

BELATED BIRTHDAY POEM

My friend from Canada, writer Jane Cassie, wrote this poem for my birthday

It is that time of year again
To raise a glass of cheer
To you, our Travel lady editor
Who publishes all year!

As well as posting stories
Of our trips from earth to Mars
You demonstrate new strategies
With the added Google bars

This wish, it comes with gratitude
For the work that you display
You deserve some fun, dear Madelyn
On your very special day!


All the best –and have a blast in the year to come!

Cheers, Jane

Sunday, March 19, 2006

Rochelle Brown birthday March 10

My friend Rochelle outdoes herself for every holiday. She always has eight Chanukah presents for me days before Hanukah starts. So this year, I decided to start working on her birthday weeks ahead.

I started buying dangly earrings for her while I was in New York in January. Then I bought a dozen plastic hollow easter eggs and tucked each pair into a matching color and then wrapped them in cellophone polkadot bag.

Then in honor of our favorite store, the six dollar store(now $6.47) I took their sigtnature yellow bag to a bakery and had them match the color on cupcakes and frost them with $6.47. The baker thought it was unusual, but complied.

I brought them to Catalina, where we were having lunch. They arranged the cupcakes on a platter with fresh strawberries. Rochelle laughed hysterically and the servers all wanted to know what $6.47 stood for.

Then we went over to the store and shopped and left the cupcakes behind.

Friday, March 10, 2006

March 4, my birthday and the perfect gift

My friend Rochelle Brown, really knows what I like. She called me on my birthday and said hurry over to the six dollar story, they have a new shipment. Of course I rushed over. And I found some great stuff. When I went to check out, Rochelle handed me a gift certificate. The perfect gift

Friday, February 03, 2006

A new neighborhood restaurant:Amuse

What downtown needed was a reasonable, classy restaurant. And Amuse fits the bill without overcharging. It is sleek and stylish with interesting choices and a cozy bar. I had a shaved turkey sandwhich with brie and cranberry sauce and walnuts. ($9). It included a choice of fries or grilled vegetables (my choice and very tasty) Each table is given a ceramic bowl of fried garlic pita triangle and a pesto dipping sauce
The sevice was terrific
I would go back even if I didn't live across the street.
It is on Lamar right across from the police station, near Giley's and Southside on Lamar, almost directly across from Poor David's.

Happy Chineese New Year

After nearly a month of eating, drinking and tasting chocolate in New York, I spent my last night with good friend and Bon Vivant and culinary consultant TJRobinson. We had dim sum in Chinatown and only when I arrived did I realize it was Chineese New Year's Eve. Very exciting.
Then we went to a new off-Broadway play, confessions of a Mormon Boy, a hilarious one-man show that I would highly recommend. The big shock of the show wasn't when he took off his underwear, but when he removed his hairpiece.
HIs buff body (The actor, not TJ) did not give away his age, but his bald palate made him seem older.

Friday, January 20, 2006

You know you are drinking too much when

I was at a trendy bar tonight, Pegu Club on HOuston to taste some Zuidam Dry Gin with James Levine.

I started the evening by going to the wrong bar--a Mexican bar right next store. I did not look closely at the address or name because it just looked like the right location. I told the hostess I was meeting a man I did not know. She said there were no single men there. (attention women looking for men)
She directed me to the bar. I sat down, realizing that for once I was early--and that explained why James was not there.
The waiter asked me if I would like a drink. I said, "NO thank you, I was waiting to meet someone who wanted me to taste some very special gin." The waiter tactfully said, "Really? You know this is a tequilla bar."
I waited a little longer. Looked around. Looked at the name on the matches.
OOPS I WAS IN THE WRONG BAR.

But the plot thickens. I easily found James at the bar at Pegu Club. We laughed about having a little trouble finding each other. As we were chatting, another man came over. He asked me if I had been at Moda on Wednesday night.
I had been there tasting martinis and tapas.
Turns out he was the bartender at Moda and recognized me.

Am I going to get a reputation as a bar girl?

Sunday, January 08, 2006

Researching cocktaills and Chocolate in New York

My friend Rochelle Brown called this trip a "yum", "burp", "o-o-o-oh" trip.
And I am also doing a little shopping.
The flea market people think I live here--I seem to be shopping so often. They recognize me.


Staying at Lucy Komisar appt 12th street at 6th Avenue


Jan 7 Saturday Greg and Gabrielle and Hope at Café des ARtists
Jan 8 Sunday wholesale jewelry show and flea markets
Jan 9 Monday wholesale jewelry show
Jan 10 Tuesday wholesale show
MARGARITA EVENT
Jose Cuervo “easy entertaining” event with Sandra Lee
hudson
Jan 11 wed spend day with Danielle Eddy
Jan 12 thurs
JAN 13 friday
Jan 14 Phily
Jan 15 Phily
Jan 16 Monday
Jan 17 Tuesday
Jan 18 Wednesday Lunch Sanford TEller
RITZ CARLTON CHOCOLATE PARTY
antiques preview party
Jan 19 Thursday
Jan 20 Friday
Jan 21 Saturday STAY WITH EDITH HALL FRANCE REUNION
Jan 22 Sun STAY WITH EDITH HALL FRANCE REUNION
Jan 23 Monday
Jan 24 Tuesday
Jan 25 wed afternoon Joyce Dalton 1pm upper east side 406/425-1920.

Jan 26 Thursday Spirit Launch at Hudson Hotel.
AUSTRALIAN WINE EVENT (212-351-6585)
2:00pm on 1/26 sound for Sebor Absinth? We can meet with Jeremy (Jessica Sands)

Jan 27 Friday
Jan 28 Saturday flea markets
Jan 29 Sunday flea markets LUCY HOME


BARS TO TRY

Passerby in Manhattan. Pop in and get a Cosmo made by its creator . (FROM ARDENT SPIRITS)
Manhattan's most sophisticated upscale cocktail lounges including The Campbell Apartment in Grand Central Terminal, The World Bar in the Trump World Tower, and The Carnegie Club.

Thursday, December 29, 2005

Chanukah at Ikea..the multi-cultural meeting

My friend Rochelle Brown took me to the newly opened Ikea today for a Chanukah lunch. How cross cultural. A Baptist woman of color from the South take a nice Jewish girl from the Midwest to eat at a Swedish restaurant in Texas.
We had their marvelous meatballs and then looked for the sale. Not much was marked down, but then Ikea is generally such a good deal it was not too disappointing. I found some interesting gadgets, and then when we were checking out, Rochelle handed me a gift card for Ikea from her Aunt Bertie. It was a great present.

WE still have lots in common

I ran into an old sorority sister today at Ikea. I had not seen Paula Joyce in years--our pattern was that our paths would cross at some artsy event or speaker every five years or so.
When I asked what was new she replied, "I'm divorced" jubilantly. My lovely friend Rochelle, said nicely, "Oh, that is too bad." But I understood and said me, too, matching Paula's level of enthusiasm.

Monday, December 26, 2005

Bargains at California Girl

Two dollar separates. New things. Cotton and knit in black, navy, cream, red and hot pink.
California Girl is on Garland Road near Centerville.

Saturday, December 24, 2005

Happy Holidays

AFter being home sick for five days, I was ready to get out. My friend Diane Teitlebaum invited me to join her family at her sister Lori's house for xmas Eve Dinner. By the time we got there, Lori was sick and so I never saw her. But the rest of us enjoyed a wonderful dinner with four desserts. The Lindt chocolates I brought were a big hit. I think I ate enough calories to make up for a week of not eating.,

Friday, December 23, 2005

I love Italian Farmers

My friend Diane Teitlebaum, the wine wizard, invited me to a dinner celebrating Slow Food and sponsored by farmers from Turin, Italy. The food and wine wine was wonderful--platters and platters of roasted vegetables, cheese in honey, carved vegetables, and wonderful wines. (Oh, I said that already)
It reminded me of the wonderful time and fabulous food I had in Italy and made me want to go back soon.

Saturday, December 10, 2005

Blue Artichoke

Tried a wonderful new lunch place in the design district with my friend Rochelle Brown. It had yummy soups, salads, sandwhiches and pasta in a sleek, sophisticated setting.
There are two antique buildings-- LOST and FOUND. One is black, the other is white.
The restaurant is in FOUND even though both Rochelle and I got lost finding it. Address is 1225 INdustrial. It is only open for lunch.

Thursday, December 08, 2005

Why I am freezing cold

Dallas is not really prepared for cold weather. So when the roads freeze, we all panic. I decided to stay home and just snuggle in. Good idea--except the heat in my building went out.
I kept moving the heating thermastat up and it seemed like it was getting colder and colder.
I drank hot chocolate.
I sipped Hot Chai Tea
I made chicken noodle soup.
Even food did not solve the problem.

I bundled up with four sweaters which made it difficult to work on my computer with frozen fingers.

I finally had a service call and now I know what the problem is. The heat wasn't on

Thursday, December 01, 2005

Calling all SALE SHOPPERS..the SPARKLING SCOOP

iF ONLY I had a prom to go to. Or a few more holiday parties. I cannot believe the beaded dresses and separates at the SIX DOLLAR STORE.

Stephen told me they were getting it in,,,but I had to check it out first before I sent this out. He has 7,000 beaded things so there is enough for all my friends and all my friends friends.

These are so gorgeous and so cheap I thought about buying lots and cutting them up and making pillows or bedspreads.

The store is 1505 Wycliff. (between Stemmons and Irving) across from the Anatole.

There is another one on Camp Wisdom Road near the old Red Bird Mall, next to Office Depot

Monday, November 21, 2005

Guatemala was great

November 11-19, 2005




Press Trip Itinerary

Friday- November 11
Arrival and transfer to Guatemala City
Dinner and overnight stay in Hotel Quinta Real ph: 502-2-420-7720


Saturday- November 12
6:00 AM Breakfast in hotel
7:00 AM Bus ride to Quiriguá
11:00 AM Tour Quiriguá archaeological site
2:00 PM Lunch – Hotel Green Bay
3:00 PM Tour of Cerro San Gil
5:00 PM Dinner and overnight stay in Amatique Bay Marina and Resort

Sunday- November 13
7:00 AM Boat ride to Livingston for breakfast
10:00 AM Boat ride to Biotopo Chocón Machacas, cañón del Río and Isla de Pájaros
1:30 PM Lunch at Río Dulce in Hotel Catamarán
4:30 PM Boat ride to the San Felipe Castle and Lake Izabal
5:00 PM Visit Paraíso estate
6:00 PM Dinner and overnight stay in Río Dulce’s Hotel Banana Palms

Monday- November 14
6:00 AM Transfer to Flores, Petén
7:00 AM Breakfast
9:00 AM Transfer to Tikal National Park
10:00 AM Arrive in Tikal
1:00 PM Lunch in Hotel Jungle Lodge
2:00 PM Continue tour of park
5:00 PM Dinner and overnight stay in Camino Real Tikal’s Hotel La Lancha
ph: 501-824-4912

Tuesday- November 15
7:00 AM Transfer to Mundo Maya International Airport for flight to Guatemala City
8:15 AM Departure to Guatemala City
9:05 AM Arrival in La Aurora International Airport and transfer to Antigua
10:30 AM Tour of Antigua
1:00 PM Lunch in Mesón Pansa Verde
2:00 PM Continue tour of Antigua
5:00 PM Dinner and overnight stay in Antigua’s Hotel Casa Santo Domingo
ph: 502-782-0-1220







Wednesday- November 16
7:00 AM Breakfast – Porta Hotel Antigua
9:30 AM Transfer to Guatemala City
11:00 AM Tour of Guatemala City
1:00 PM Lunch – Restaurant Kakao
2:00 PM Continue tour of Guatemala City
5:00 PM Dinner and overnight stay in Hotel Westin Camino Real
ph: 502-233-3-3000


Thursday- November 17 -SaturdaY Nov 19
INtercontinental Guatemala City

Three hours prior to departure, transfer to La Aurora International Airport

Guatemala Quick Facts


Location: Central America, bordering the North Pacific Ocean, between El Salvador and Mexico, and bordering the Gulf of Honduras (Caribbean Sea) between Honduras and Belize.

Map References: Central America and the Caribbean.

Area: Total -- 108,890 sq km; water -- 460 sq km; land -- 108,430 sq km.

U.S. Area: In comparison to a U.S. state, slightly smaller than Tennessee.

Land Boundaries Total: 1,687 km; Border countries include Belize 266 km, El Salvador 203 km, Honduras 256 km and Mexico 962 km.

Coastline: 400 km.

Maritime Claims: Territorial sea -- 12 nm; exclusive economic zone -- 200 nm; continental shelf – 200m depth.

Climate: Tropical -- hot, humid in lowlands and cooler in highlands.
Temperature predictions during your stay will range from the highs 75˚ F/ and lows 58˚ F.

Attire: Casual.
Note: It tends to get chilly in the evenings.

Seasons: Rainy season varies from May to October. Dry season varies from November to April.

Currency: Quetzal.

Exchange rate (Est.): 1 USD = 7.57 Guatemala Quetzales.

Note: Bargaining throughout various marketplaces in Guatemala can be
done either in U.S. or local Guatemala currency the Quetzal.



General Fact Sheet


What makes Guatemala different from many other countries is it’s variety of environments, you can be enjoying the calm of lake Atitlán and a couple of hours later you can be discovering the history of an ancient city like Antigua, climbing the Agua Volcano or going to a shopping mall in Guatemala city.

1. The Mayan World Adventure
2. Living Indigenous Highlands
3. Different Caribbean

4. The Pacific Coast

5. Modern and Colonial Guatemala

6. Discovering Guatemala

7. Natural Paradise







To promote the most visited tourist destinations within Guatemala, seven areas were designated as part of an aggressive tourism campaign. The areas selected include the most visited destinations as well as new areas proposed for development:

A Different Caribbean
v Includes the Province of Izabal.
v It’s name says it all, Izabal is part of the Caribbean but unique in its nature. It was the stage for Pirates and Galleons during the conquest, and it is presently the home of the Garífuna culture, which arrived on the coasts over 200 years ago.


v Río Dulce (Sweet River) and Lake Izabal are truly a paradise for nature lovers and water sports aficionados.
v


Living Indigenous Highland
v Located in the western part of the country, this sector includes the provinces of Huehuetenango, Quiché, Totonicapán, Sololá, Chimaltenango, San Marcos and Quetzaltenango.
v After the Mayan cities in Petén where abandoned, the highland rejoiced with the arrival of its descendents who, surrounded by cold weather and fertile lands, called the mountains and valleys home.
v Over 20 Mayan ethnic groups occupy the indigenous highlands including the: Cack’chiquel, Quek’chi, Mam and Tzutuil.
v Their traditions, languages and crafts are a legacy of today’s Mayan World
v It is characterized by its beautiful landscapes of mountains and volcanoes, which frame the pictorial indigenous villages and sowing fields.
v Some of the destinations most widely visited in Guatemala are located in this area: Lake Atitlán and Chichicatenango.


The Mayan World Adventure

v Includes the province of Petén, the largest province in the country.
v The Mayan Civilization made the dense tropical jungle of El Petén, its home.
v The region is the cradle of the Maya: it watched the Maya civilization flourish and reach great astronomical, mathematical, architectural and artistic achievements such as Mirador, Tical and Aguateca.
v Thousands of years later, these cities still hold many of the mysteries of Mayan civilization.

The Pacific Coast

v Includes the southern provinces of Retalhuleu, Suchitepequez and Escuintla.
v Over thirty volcanoes contribute to the formation of the volcanic sand beaches on the Pacific Coast of Guatemala.
v In the warm and humid environment, these beaches, canals and wetlands serve as a refuge to a large variety of wildlife.
v Among its frequent visitors is the marine turtle, which prefers these beaches to nest their eggs.

Modern and Colonial Guatemala

v Includes the provinces of Guatemala and Sacatepéquez.
v This region holds two of Guatemala’s capital cities: one, which is a silent witness of our colonial past and the other, the largest and most modern metropolis in Central America.
v Since the arrival of the Spaniards, this area was recognized as the settlement of great cities, which is to date the pride and heart of this Mayan land.

Discovering Guatemala

v Includes the eastern provinces of Zacapa, El Progreso, Chiquimula, Jalapa, Jutiapa and Santa Rosa.

v Largely, tourists have not frequented the provinces that make up this region.
v This provides a great advantage to those who wish to venture into a world of tradition and culture that, until now, has hardly been explored. Among its main attractions are: the Basilica of Esquipulas, the only basilica of Central America and home of the Black Christ of Esquipulas.

Natural Paradise

v Includes the provinces of Alta Verapaz and Baja Verapaz.
v This area is commonly known as “Las Verapaces”, since the conquest period.
v It holds the largest and most important habitat of the majestic Quetzal, which feathers once adorned the heads of the Mayan kings and princes. It is “green, green, green” as once described by the Guatemalan Nobel Literary Prize Winner, Miguel Ángel Asturias.
v






Guatemalan Provinces




Guatemala, a country of contrasts and mosaics that enrich us with their natural vibrant colors that grow from our soil’s unique characteristics; warm and friendly, just as our weather, our people and our traditions.

So strong and playful, it’s beauty is reflected in it’s wide mountains and vast lands with a naturally enriched soil that gives life to a huge diversity of flora and fauna like no other in the world, towering pyramids rise above the jungle’s green canopy and howler monkeys share the tops of trees with colorful birds, this is Guatemala. Many places where to stay, and many moods to share.

Guatemala has the richest ethnic diversity of all the countries of Central America. Eighty percent of the population is indigenous. Most groups are descendants of the Mayans and have preserved their traditional clothing, folklore and language. Some places from the Mayan empire, like Tikal, are world famous, others still lay hidden in dense jungles waiting for explorers to discover their secrets.

Tikal. Adventuring at the ancient Mayan acropolis.

If you dream of visiting old Mayan temples hidden in lush jungle with giant Ceiba trees, colorful birds and howler monkeys, Tikal is the right place. The biggest acropolis discovered were the temples are magnificent, but what makes this park so unique is its setting. All groups of monuments are separated by thick rainforests with century old trees. The forest only is worthy of a visit even if the Mayan temples weren’t there. At least tropical birds think so. You can see more species there in a day than anywhere else, toucans, parakeets, colorful turkeys, and vultures. Spider monkeys jumps from tree to tree while howler monkeys can be heard from a distance. The trees are spectacular as much from the ground, where they offered valuable shade, as they were from the top of temples surrounding the monuments with an array of colors complementing the darker earth tones of the stones. If you want to feel the extremely experience of climbing a temple under the powerful heat, this is the right place for the challenge.

In the late afternoon the howler monkeys roared like an army of lions. Tikal is one of those places you just wished you had more time to visit longer. Your interest could be art, anthropology, archeology, history, ecology, bird watching or just to look for a peaceful place in a beautiful rainforest, whatever your purpose may be, Tikal will easily seduce you and remain etched in your memory.

Cobán. Where you find your extreme natural spirit.

You can find some other experiences in other places for all those who like extreme. Cobán is the right place where the warm weather, rainy and foggy forests tempts you to adventure. You can stay there enjoying the landscape and the sound of the river or if you like it rough you can take a rafting tour at the river Cahabón; but also you can set free your spirit exploring the underground caves feeling the mysticism and magic of the unknown.




Antigua. Surviving and conquering the colony.

If you are looking for a quiet and cultural experience, Antigua is a colonial town with a rich history and impressive architecture. It is certainly worth a visit. Not a large town, but is the most visited destination in the country. It was the most important city in New Spain until the capitol was moved to present day Guatemala City after the destructive earthquake of 1773. During the mid-1800’s, with the introduction of the coffee industry, a few of the colonial structures were restored. However, the city has remained isolated until recently.

Antigua is among the oldest and most beautiful cities in the Americas. Set amid three magnificent volcanoes - Agua, Fuego and Acatenango - its superb yet sturdy colonial buildings have weathered 16 earthquakes and numerous floods and fires. La Antigua was declared a National Monument and a Monumental City of the Americas. In 1979 it was included in the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Today cultural activities take place inside magnificent monuments and houses. You can feel old Europe while walking among the cobblestone streets and colonial architecture. Tourists from around the world mix with Indigenous people in traditional clothing who have come in from surrounding villages. Antigua is a lovely place to relax, and a much better place to wait for a flight out of the country than the nearby capital.
Antigua is especially beautiful during Semana Santa or Holly Week, when the streets are carpeted with elaborate decorations of colored sawdust and flower petals. The city's churches have lost much of their Baroque splendor, the post-earthquake repair and restoration leaving them denuded of embellishment and elegance. However, many remain impressive, in particular La Merced, Iglesia de San Francisco and Las Capuchinas (now a museum). Casa K'ojom is a fascinating museum of Mayan music and ceremonies and related artifacts. On Sundays, visitors and locals alike gather to assess the goods for sale at the bustling market held in Parque Central.
Guatemala. The metropolitan age.
Guatemala City is the largest urban city in Central America. Like all Guatemalan towns, a logical grid system has been imposed on the city's layout: avenidas run north-south; calles run east-west. The huge city has been divided into 22 zones, each with its own version of this grid system.
Few colonial buildings grace the city, especially in the zone 1, where the Central Park (officially the Plaza de la Constitución) is a classic example of the standard Spanish colonial town. People who like to take walks or even sit on a bench to soak in the surroundings visit this Park every Sunday. In front of this park you can see the majestic National Palace of the Culture, a great museum of history. And in the other side of the park you can see Metropolitan Cathedral.
In zone 10 are several and important museums like the Museo Popol Vuh, which is a superb private collection of Mayan and Spanish colonial art, and the Museo Ixchel del Traje Indígena, which displays the rich traditional arts and costumes of Guatemala's highland towns. Zona 13 houses the Museo Nacional de Arqueología y Etnología, with its prized collection of Mayan artifacts, and the Museo Nacional de Arte Moderno, which has a superb collection of 20th-century Guatemalan art the Museo Del Niño.
The most important hotels and conventions centers are placed on zone 10 of more common denominated, La Zona Viva.
The High Lands.

Atitlán.

If your spirit is much more quiet, you can also enjoy the beauty of lake Atitlan. Volcanoes surround the lake, and the town is the starting point for excursions to the smaller, more traditional indigenous villages on the western and southern shores of the lake. The most popular day-trip destination is Santiago Atitlán, with its colorfully dressed locals and a unique, cigar-smoking resident deity called Maximón. The market town of Sololá has been attracting traders for centuries, and the town's main plaza continues to throb with activity on market days. Village life can be sampled at Santa Catarina Palopó, while lakeside San Pedro La Laguna is fun for its population of bohemian travelers who liked it here so much they stayed.

Chichicastentango.

At 2030m (6658ft), the magical and misty highlands town of Chichi is surrounded by valleys and overshadowed by looming mountains. Though isolated, it's always been an important market town. The Sunday market is the one to catch, as the cofradías (religious brotherhoods) often hold processions on that day. The locals have combined traditional Mayan religious rites with Catholicism; the best places to witness these old rites are around the church of Santo Tomás and the shrine of Pascual Abaj, which honors the Mayan earth god. Incense, food, drink and cigarettes are offered to ancestors and to ensure the continued fertility of the earth. The town's Museo Regional contains ancient clay pots and figurines, flint and obsidian spearheads, maize grindstones and an impressive jade collection.

Quetzaltenango.

The commercial center of southwestern Guatemala, Quetzaltenango, more commonly called Xela ('shay-lah'), is an excellent base for excursions to the many nearby villages, noted for their hot springs and handmade crafts. The city prospered during the 19th century as a coffee-broker and storage center until an earthquake and volcanic eruption ended the boom. In recent years, Xela has become well known for its Spanish-language schools. The town's major sights are the central square and the buildings which surround it, a couple of basic though useful markets and the ubiquitous Parque Minerva - many such monuments were built during the presidency of Manuel Estrada Cabrera (1898-1920), to honor the classical goddess of education in the hope of inspiring Guatemalan youth to new heights of learning. The beautiful volcanic countryside surrounding Xela features natural steam baths at Los Vahos and Fuentes Georginas. Also in the vicinity are the picture-postcard village of Zunil, the garment district of Guatemala, San Francisco El Alto and the centre for woolly woollens, the village of Momostenango.

Livingston. The sounds of the caribean.

The town of Lívingston is accessible from the Caribbean port of Puerto Barrios. The local people named the Garífunas lives on the island. The blend of Maya, African and European culture had created the unique language and traditions of this town. Tiny Lívingston with coconut groves, gaily painted wooden buildings and a fishing economy is the starting point for boat rides on the Río Quehueche and Río Cocolí, which take you through tropical jungle scenery for a swim or a picnic, or out to the Cayos for snorkeling and fishing.

Pacific Coast. Warm weather, warm people.

Situated on Guatemala's Pacific Slope, this is an important site for anyone interested in Mayan art and culture. The sugar cane fields are dotted with great stone heads and scenes carved in relief. The artifacts are the remnants of the Pipils. There are three main archaeological sites in the surrounding sugar cane fincas (ranches or plantations). Finca Bilbao consists of several ceremonial sites containing stone sculptures, many of which are hidden among the cane. Hilltop Finca El Baúl has the additional fascination of being a still-active place of worship, while Finca Las Ilusiones contains hundreds of objects, which have been collected from the fields over the centuries. Also in the pacific coast you can find beautiful black sand beaches like Monterrico, Las Lisas and Sipacate, where you can practice water sports and enjoy beautiful nature walks. Avid sports fishermen that frequent the area, internationally recognize the black sand beaches of Puerto Quetzal to participate in the sport.